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WELCOME WELCOME WELCOME TO THE SECOND EDITION OF THE ANNUAL DMS AUGUST BANK HOLIDAY MEETArguably penned as the best climbing meet of the year. Gorgeous scenery, brilliant climbing in stunning positions and beautiful beaches.
Sea cliff climbing can be pretty serious. A certain amount of confidence abseiling and climbing in exposed situations is definitely essential for this trip. Having said that there are some reasonably friendly routes dotted about, particularly at Saddle head and St David's (some still require an abseil).
Camping
Bosherston campsite.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/iQRvWK7m9XKWQKZ3A
Facilities are very basic (cold showers and portaloos) however it is very cheap at £6 a night and perfectly located. Payment is cash only.
Broadhaven beach is very close by, about a 20 minute walk past the lily ponds, and most people will head down for a swim after a days climbing. Bring coins for the parking meter if you drive down.
Phone signal was much improved last year. It was possible to get signal in some parts of the campsite. There is also WIFI at the pub. We will aim to have dinner at the pub on Saturday evening. Please post below if you are interested as we will need to book a table.
Access
Most of Pembroke is bird banned in the summer but the bans are mostly lifted by the end of August. For more details check UKC and guidebooks. Some cliffs have red markers at the top which indicate a restricted area. You should not climb between these markers https://www.pembrokeshirecoast.wales/wp ... ng_eng.pdf. Range west is also off limits unless you have attended a briefing (unlikely as it was back in the spring).
Some of the routes are tidal as the belay ledges get covered by the freakishly big tidal swing. The guidebooks will tell you if this is the case and tide times can be checked online.
Most of the routes require an abseil to access them. You will need a 50m+ abseil rope and rope protector, also a familiarity with abseiling safely and using prusiks to descend and ideally to ascend (just in case).
Climbing
The climbing in Pembroke is absolutely first class. There are a handful of easier offerings but the best routes start with a few classics at HS and then get really exciting at VS and above. The protection can be very fiddly and I would recommend dropping a grade for your first day or so until you get used to it. Take lots of nuts and offsets.
Most of the cliffs are walking distance from the St Govans chapel car park.
New members are welcome providing they have some experience of exposed climbing and abseiling. The usual rules apply. i.e. must have a helmet, harness, shoes etc. and be a proficient lead belayer.
Pub meal on Saturday 🍻
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Event Venue & Nearby Stays
Bosherton Campsite, Pembroke, Pembrokeshire, United Kingdom
